The list of a dozen assorted preparations of udon, soba, and ramen might look sparse to you, but all the noodles are made fresh daily — the old-fashioned way — in this tiny, spare, modern space, separated by glass walls from the unprepossessing ground floor of the Kinokuniya mall. The broths in which the noodles are served are fresh-tasting and exciting, too. Mabo ramen comes in a mildly spicy broth and is topped with custardy tofu and tasty crumbled pork; fat pale udon come with sweet, almost candied braised eel over rice (unagi don). In addition to the exquisite noodles, you can order simple but luscious salmon sashimi, cut in thick buttery chunks; delicate freshly fried tempura; and crisp fried chicken kara-age. Even Suzu's edamame seem better than most.