Leave the Mint to the posers, frat boys, and bridge-and-tunnel crowd and head instead to this scarlet and black retro-Chinatown cubbyhole, where owner-barkeep Candy Wong presides over a fun-loving lineup of crooners, belters, and wannabe divas. Every night around 9, a colorful cast of characters — wizened locals, adventuresome hipsters, and throwbacks drawn by the plumes of cigarette smoke and the sound of rattling dice — make music or mincemeat out of "We Are Family," "What's New Pussycat," "Mack the Knife," even "Being for the Benefit of Mr. Kite." But the emcee (he answers to the name of Folsom) keeps everyone in line between his own renditions of "House of the Rising Sun." Candy, a sweetheart, sets the joint's cuckoo-casual tone, serving up boiled peanuts and the occasional free drink with saucy good cheer.