The lusty food served in the newly redecorated Globe is welcome at any hour, but especially during the wee ones, because few places in the city are open at all then, much less offering a sophisticated menu. The list ranges from big fresh salads (Chiogga beets with mint chiffonade and goat cheese; salad lardon, curly, chewy frisée with a warm vinaigrette full of bacon chunks and two cold poached eggs; radicchio with sliced bosc pears, lightly candied pecans, and a maple-and-balsamic vinaigrette; shaved fennel and black radishes with ruby grapefruit) to superb pizzas (a favorite is topped with melting mozzarella, excellent soppressata, and two eggs sunny side up). Signature house-made pastas (such as pale-green nettle linguini with garlic topped with salty, dried tuna fish roe) and inventive meat and fish dishes (rosy wild salmon nestled under a lively, freshly chopped salsa verde on top of Globe's own boccacino; a lusty Niman Ranch porterhouse sided with baby turnips and mustard greens) come served in huge, shallow bowls from which waft appetizing aromas. Hog Island oysters are opened to order; a big curl of homemade sausage is served in the pan it's cooked in. A full bar and an interesting wine list fuel the festive crowd.