Lots of places drown their steak tartare in egg yolks and anchovies and even, for Christ's sake, caviar, but lots of places don't have raw meat like Harris'. No cover-up is necessary when your beef comes from your own herds, it's dry-aged for 21 days, and, in the case of the tartare, it's filet mignon. The result is coarsely ground and touched with just enough mustard, red onion, Worcestershire, and capers to bring out the meat's subtle, rich flavor. Accompanied by a dozen rounds of toasted sourdough, it's a decadent, cool, and creamy snack, best experienced with a glass of Grgich Hills zinfandel in the restaurant's clubby walnut-paneled bar on a Thursday or Friday night, when live jazz drifts across the room and all is right with the world.