When the management of Gira Polli left this address last year to concentrate on their Mill Valley outpost, they left behind the rotisserie oven, a beauty that had been shipped in pieces from Sicily when the restaurant opened 17 years ago. The oven is the central theme of Fogón, the imaginative Cal-Latin restaurant that opened here last December. Starring on the menu is the Cuban roasted chicken, in which the bird is marinated in sour orange juice, mojo sauce, and garlic and roasted on the spit until the flame-licked skin is crackly and fragrant and the meat is juicy and tender throughout. This ample feast includes bowls of romesco and chimichurri sauces and your choice of two sides, including the traditional black beans and plantains. Fogón ("hearth") is a small yet elegant place with chandeliers, candlelight, starched napery, and eight tables looking out on Washington Square; alternatively, you can take in the view of the chickens rotating in the almond-fired, glass-enclosed oven, just behind the counter.