Since we'll go anywhere for fried chicken, it's a good year in which two new contenders for San Francisco's best arrive. At farmerbrown, Jay Foster offers a wing, leg, and breast, which he's brined for 12 to 24 hours, and then soaked in buttermilk overnight. It comes out moist and tasty under a peppery flour-and-milk batter. The bird arrives with mac 'n' cheese and crunchy, well-vinegared coleslaw. The dish at the Front Porch is called Miss Ollie's chicken, and blends Caribbean and American influences. Chef Sarah Kirnon first brines the fowl with citrus juices, then rubs it with an herb-and-spice mix (including habanero and parsley) and then a bath of soy-sparked beaten egg before dipping the pieces in bread crumbs and frying them, with a quick finish in the oven. Depending on the season and how the chef feels that day, sides might include black-eyed peas and collard greens flavored with pork belly.