Comments (0) Best Gnocchi - 2007

Antica Trattoria

Gnocchi is one of those seemingly simple dishes that only a maestro's light touch can pull off. Without proper care and attention, these delectable dumplings, a glory of Roman cuisine since ancient times, can be doughy, dry, and heavy as a bowl of bocce balls. Antica, a lively little trattoria on the western slopes of Russian Hill, is adept at the preparation of elementally satisfying comfort food like risotto and tiramisu, and the house gnocchi is superb. It's feathery in texture yet rich and earthy in flavor, a delicious dichotomy facilitated by a potent drizzle of truffle oil and the sweetly pungent fontina "fondue" that serves as an ambrosial dipping sauce. Taken with a glass of pinot nero, it's a magnificent snack, but the dumplings are even better as the prelude to an evening of Antica's braciola di maiale, spinace saltati and one of the city's finest panna cottas.