There was a time when every city neighborhood boasted a couple of these places — stores offering cold cases stuffed with good-quality meats, cheeses, and prepared foods, places devoid of seating but where you could take out anything from a freshly-made sandwich to a multi-course feast, at reasonable prices. Such spots seem to be going the way of the independent bookstore, record store, or dinosaur. We treasure the few that are left. A favorite is Rossi's, which offers an amazing amount of good food (at equally amazing prices; sandwiches hover around $5) in its slender quarters. The overstuffed deviled egg is a specialty, as are the house-made pastas and salads. The serve-yourself brewed coffee is always hot and fresh. No matter how long the line is (Rossi's also sells Muni passes and lotto tickets), the nice counter guys will get you out quickly, with your toasted-to-order BLT with extra mayo or Italian sub neatly wrapped and bagged. In fact, the only thing that doesn't remind us of New York is the invariable courtesy with which we are treated.