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Best New High-End Restaurant - 2007
The complicated genius of chef Daniel Patterson is on display in Coi's muted, earth-toned dining room, in which you feel as if you're on a glowing spaceship eating food that's out of this world. The prix-fixe menus (either a set tasting menu, or one of four courses with several choices for each course) have been known to include Patterson's famed deep-fried coins of bone marrow topped with caviar; ravioli filled with sweetbreads buried under black truffle foam; grilled ayu, an oily smelt-like fish, atop brown mousseron beans, with tiny cauliflower buds, a swirl of silky cauliflower sauce; and an assortment of beef, sided with a fragile stew of artichokes, spring onions, and lavender. (The influences of such revered "molecular gastronomists" as Ferran Adria and Wylie Dufresne are clear.) Everything is exquisitely served on modernist Edith Heath pottery. Patterson collaborated with Bay Area perfumer Mandy Aftel on a cookbook called Aroma: The Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance, whose philosophies are demonstrated in a creation such as a grapefruit mousse atop citrus sections served with a dab of spiced grapefruit oil, meant to be placed on your wrist and sniffed while consuming the dish. In any event, the ride on this glowing spaceship will be delicious, as well as intriguing.