When Farallon added a dedicated oyster bar to its front bar room, it should come as no surprise that the already stunning place went all-out. The glamorous, glittering eight-seat bar, under a couple of Farallon's signature blown-glass jellyfish chandeliers, features a wide white marble counter. There you sit on high stools and can command anything from oysters or cherrystone clams, opened before your eyes, at $2.50 each, to a royal iced fruits de mer platter at $110, boasting lobster, Dungeness crab, shrimp, and other delights, in addition to the bivalves. The changing oyster list offers anywhere from nine to 13 different varieties. We sampled 10, including blue points from New York and Olde Salts from Virginia — the only local oyster on offer being the Marin Miyagi. New favorites included the Kusshi, from British Columbia, and the St. Simone, from New Brunswick. The giant, fat Washington Westcott looked like a full meal. The oysters, brimming with their liquor, are served on cracked ice with lemon, mignonette sauce, two kinds of bread, and butter dusted with crunchy red pepper. First-cabin all the way.