You don't go to Country Station for the speedy service — depending on the night, your wait time for a table runs anywhere from 15 minutes to over an hour (if you want quick fish, saddle up to some cookie-cutter sushi joint). Country Station is the closest thing S.F. has to a punk-rock eatery, right down to the soundtrack. There's rarely a spoiler on the stereo here — from the Stooges to Black Flag and Fugazi, the staff at this Mission mainstay sticks close to punk's roots. This concept complements the visual aesthetic too, as passing through the Station's thrift-store curtains brings diners into a cramped and cluttered setup, with photos tacked kamikaze-style across the walls. Of course, the food rules too, with enough options to keep all those sea critters fried or thickly sliced in some creative variations on the theme.