In this city, where seasonality and local produce are celebrated almost reflexively on every menu, we're a sucker for vegetable sides, whether arriving at table as part of your entree, or ordered on their own. Loretta Keller, at Coco 500, entitles hers "California dirt," and we still remember a dish of creamed corn with marjoram and smoky paprika we ate there more than a year-and-a-half ago. The latest vegetable side to enter our personal pantheon is a very vernal concoction of mashed peas treated to a bath in minted butter. The peas, obviously fresh, were served in an interesting, slightly lumpy state in between whole and pur?ed that tasted irresistibly sweet and green. They could be commanded as part of your main course (which comes with a choice of one of five sides), or all on their sweet green selves.