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Best Cannoli San Francisco 2008 - Victoria Pastry Co.

Victoria Pastry Co.

Victoria Pastry Co.

700 Filbert St.

San Francisco, CA 94133

415-781-2015

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A good cannoli is like a party waiting to happen: Contained within its demure dimensions is enough ring-a-ding-ding to incite wholesale festivity and a conga line or two. Victoria, a cherished 94-year-old Italian bakery renowned for its special-occasion wedding, zuccotto and St. Honoré cakes, also fries up an outstanding cannoli. Begin with its outer casing, a delicate, feathery pâté à choux far removed from the jawbreakers endemic to most examples of the genre. It's stuffed with a rich, lush housemade ricotta studded not with the usual abominable candied fruit but chunks of dark bittersweet chocolate, maraschino cherries bracketing either end, a dusting of powdered sugar gilding the lily. The combination of cream, crunch, tart, and sweet is euphoric; one bite, and you'll find yourself striding down Columbus belting out the chorus from Il Trovatore.

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LC
LC

I think your reviewer needs a lesson in cannoli structure, not to mention Italian. First off, the shell of a cannolo (the singular of cannoli) is not p� a choux, which is of course French. In Italian that type of pastry is known as pasta bign�Whatever the language, this is a twice-cooked egg pastry, which is baked, not fried. For example, eclairs are made from p� a choux. But cannoli have fried shells, without eggs or any baking.

Whether Victoria Pastry Co. has the best cannoli in town or not--the jury is still out for me--you should be careful when throwing around pastry terminology.

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