Umami, a rather opulent pan-Asian place, includes Korean bi bim bap, Vietnamese shaking beef, and fusion shibuya sliders (made with Wagyu beef, no less), on its menu. But sushi hounds hum "Simply the Best" here. They order traditional nigiri from sushi chef Akira Yoshizumi's frequently changing menu that features, in addition to the expected hamachi (yellowtail) and kanpachi (amberjack), four kinds of tuna, two kinds of mackerel, ocean trout (masu), and such seasonal rarities as wild sea bass (suzuki) and wild eel (unagi). Multi-ingredient traditional and house-invented rolls have their partisans, too.