When it comes to fish and chips, there are two nonnegotiables. One: The breading must have crunch. Two: The fish must have tenderness. It also helps immensely if the chef is British, and even more so if the chef is Henry Dombey or his protégé, Daven Hayes. They can be found waxing clever and wielding spatulas at the back of Ace Cafe — a biker bar named after a racing cafe in London — almost every night. It's the kind of place where MotoGP plays constantly on the big screen and somebody is usually choosing the Clash on the jukebox, which makes people start dancing like dildos and you almost forget you're there for the food. The fish and chips, while excellent in their crunchy-outside-tender-inside combo, are also not for the light-walleted. At $9.50, the Prohibition beer-battered cod is the most expensive item on the menu, but keep in mind it comes with homemade tartar sauce and a special mushy peas side (the secret ingredient is bacon). If we had a category for best mushy peas, there wouldn't even be a contest.