You don't come to this tiny Parkside spot for the nonexistent decor, but for the fresh handmade dumplings, which range from the familiar (Shanghai soup dumplings) to the not-so-familiar (pork and corn dumplings, pork and shrimp with chives, pork and Napa cabbage, lamb and chive). They come six to an order, served with a tangy soy dipping sauce, and cost $4.95 to $6.95. Freebies include the cucumbers in rice-wine vinegar with boiled peanuts, and an occasional dessert. Try the green onion pancakes or the sesame beef pancakes, too.