Italy loves gobs of sugary dough fried in deep fat (and who doesn't?), offering a boot-wide abondanza of Neapolitan zeppole, Sicilian sfinci, Bolognese sfrappole, and Tuscan bombolini, perhaps the fairest of them all. Bigger and fluffier than your standard doughnut hole, these toothsome clouds of yeast, flour, and eggs are cooked in oil, dusted with sugar, and filled with chocolate, custard, or (best of all) raspberry preserve. I Preferiti di Boriana imports pastas, cheeses, wines, and olive oils from the Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano, but its outstanding Italian commodity is its old family recipe for bombolini. Prepared every morning from fresh and imported ingredients, they're light yet slightly chewy in texture, just sweet enough to complement a shot of espresso, and tucked inside is a dollop of tart raspberry jam rich with seeds and brambly flavor. They're also available stuffed with chocolate, custard, or Nutella at $2.50-$2.75 apiece.

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