The Joe's Special is one of those last-minute what's-in-the-cupboard culinary concoctions that has transcended its erratic origins and entered the standard restaurant repertoire. Conceived out of desperation at (the now-defunct) New Joe's in North Beach to sate the early-morning appetites of a marauding band of Prohibition-era jazz musicians, this protein-rich amalgam of red meat, scrambled eggs, and spinach can be found on the menus of Joe's-style Italo-California chop houses across Northern California, but Polkers' version is particularly satisfying. Coarsely ground beef is browned in thick, fragrant olive oil with plenty of onion and mushroom; the earthy spinach is cooked to a glistening deep green; the eggs are perfectly moist and luscious. This hearty, robust, deceptively simple platter gets any day off to a good start and is especially gratifying with Polkers' crunchy-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside rosemary-fragrant house potatoes.