Last year, Peruvian celebrity chef Gastón Acurio opened the grand La Mar Cebicheria Peruana on the San Francisco waterfront at a time when cocktails really started trending toward the old-fashioned. And while the restaurant has garnered mixed reviews in the local food media, its traditional take on the Pisco Sour has snagged a lot of buzz. At La Mar, Pisco (a grape-based brandy native to Peru and Chile) is blended with lemon juice and simple syrup, frothed up with egg whites, and dotted with bright red bitters. It's a simple yet potent recipe with the power to affect the imbiber with a South American swagger.