As you might guess, there's more to Tsar Nicoulai's scrambled egg than milk, butter, and a freshly laid ovum. First of all, it's absolutely moist and luscious (a rare feat in and of itself), ribboned with chopped chive, and infused with the earthy flavor of white truffle. Second, it's served in a hollowed-out eggshell, which adds nothing to the flavor but is elegant and whimsical all the same. Third, it's crowned with a dollop of tart crème fraîche and (most importantly) a surprisingly hefty spoonful of osetra caviar, adding a creamy hint of phosphorescent sparkle to the lush, buttery egg. The caviar comes from Tsar Nicoulai's sturgeon farm in the Central Valley, and although it and the crème fraîche and the scrambled egg won't exactly fill you up, it makes for a memorable $12 snack and is even better with a midafternoon flute of crisp Champagne.