Food & Drink

Comments (0) Best Teensy Takeout Restaurant - 2009

The Sentinel

The Sentinel

37 New Montgomery

San Francisco, CA 94105

415-284-9960

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Dennis Leary, not content with personally cooking every dish that feeds his clientele at Canteen, has opened an adorable little takeout-only place downtown in what was once a cigar stand. The daily-changing, seasonal menu (check the Web site) features a soup, perhaps half a dozen sandwiches and salads, and a special or two. There are partisans for Leary's corned beef sandwich with Gruyère and Russian dressing, his unusual salmon sandwich featuring fresh and smoked salmon with fennel and dill, and his spicy pork loin layered with sweet peppers and celery root. The contents of the Sentinel's box lunch change daily: One spring day it was marinated yellowtail atop basmati rice garnished with pea shoots, plus strawberries and whipped cream for dessert. Sandwich prices hover around $8 or $8.50; the box lunch is usually $11.65. The quality of the ingredients, the inspiration, and the execution are all top-notch.

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