A few years back, SF Weekly named Nopa "best new neighborhood restaurant." But Nopa has become much broader than a microlocal hangout — we think it's the quintessential San Francisco restaurant of its decade. With its open, urbane feel; Neyah White's amazing cocktails; and Laurence Jossel's food, it captures the easy elegance and smoother edges of post-dot-com San Francisco. Jossel works in the same tradition of Alice Waters and Judy Rodgers, but his loose, almost improvisational style belies the 20 years he spent working under Roland Passot and Gary Danko. His haute-cuisine training shows in every detail: the crackle on the fried little fish, the succulence of the brined pork chop, the satiny tenderness of his roasted calamari. Nopa is a restaurant we find ourselves going to, time and time again, never tiring of what we find.