If "cheesecake" conjures up an image of a dense, possibly lethal, ivory-colored brick, you haven't tried Fish & Farm's cheesecake. Housemade ricotta is packed into a mason jar with layers of cranberry jam, parfait style. The light, lemony cheese contrasts delectably with the tart, brisk jam, and a generous topping of butter crumble adds crunch and heft. The jar, a bit of shtick concordant with the restaurant's rustic ambience, makes scarfing the stuff in big spoonfuls all too easy. Yet, even if dessert were preceded by fried chicken, fish and chips, or a jumbo Niman Ranch pork chop, you won't leave the table in a coma.