San Francisco's cupcake wars keep escalating, as new shops open with surprising frequency and established boutiques outfit catering trucks to take their dainty delights on the road. Sitting on the sidelines, a Switzerland of cupcakes if you will, is pastry chef–slash–genius Luis Villavelazquez of Absinthe and its sister, Arlequin to Go. Villavelazquez has quietly baked up the most innovative cupcakes in town in haute flavors like candycap (mushroom) caramel; squash, cream cheese, and brown butter; and cocoa nib, huckleberry, and violet. You can find one or two varieties of his cupcakes every day in Hayes Valley; on Thursdays, he sets up a stand at the Ferry Plaza farmers' market, offering a bigger selection of the exquisite treats alongside his equally stellar beignets and scones.