Finding a bowl of honest-to-God gumbo west of Sabine Lake is problematic, to say the least, but Queen's rendition is the real deal. Too many local attempts come off watery or lack the stimulating qualities that make gumbo the emblematic Louisiana dish. But Queen's starts with an especially rich, dark roux; layers the aromatic holy trinity of pepper, onion, and celery overtop; then deepens the flavors with scallions, plump shrimp, shards of crabmeat, and rounds of peppery sausage. The result is a spicy, smoky, invigorating stew that's even better with a little pulverized sassafras stirred in. The place itself is a trim, tidy Portola hangout brimming with masks, beads, Jazz Fest posters from years past, and an infectious Big Easy spirit.