Now that most of us have heard of izakayas, the Japanese pubs where salarymen and students gather to get red-nosed and snack on little plates, half of San Francisco's run-of-the-mill Japanese restaurants have renamed their hot menus "izakaya fare." We love the izakaya Sundays at Michael Black and Daniel Dunham's restaurant, when the two sushi chefs switch to small plates, for both its brevity and its exquisite detailing: tiny Spanish mackerel, fried in a crisp, translucent batter; feathery threads of Okinawan seaweed floating with cucumber slices in ponzu sauce; tuna tartare ornamented with avocado slices, cubes of soy gelatin, and salted fluke roe. Sebo's Sunday night dinners (recently returned after a two-month hiatus) remind us more of Vancouver's multiculti izakayas than a Japanese bar, but at least it isn't repackaging mediocre tempura to fit a trend.