No foodstuff is more antithetical to the modern San Franciscan palate than Spam. Lord knows how many pigs contributed to each cube of pressed, formed meat, nor how many chemicals keep it fresh in the can. But Hawaiians know: Spam tastes good. Hawaiian Drive-Inn is a no-nonsense plate-lunch joint where chicken katsu and beef teriyaki come with two scoops of rice and one scoop of macaroni salad, and where half the takeout customers order Spam musubis in multiples of five (they're only $1.60 apiece). Place your order, and the cooks set the slices on the grill to sizzle as they lay out nori sheets and mold rice into precise rectangles. The moment the meat is browned, it's drizzled with teriyaki sauce, wrapped, and bagged, so you're eating the musubi as the seaweed is still crisp and papery, the rice is still steaming, and the spiced ham product has the texture of fresh meatloaf. Just don't think about its origins.