When you want to embrace your inner Don or Betty Draper and ingest a little nicotine with your martini, Manhattan, or old-fashioned, head for the Occidental, one of the few bars in the city where a guy or a doll can light up a Lucky with impunity. The setting is classic green-lampshade-and-dark-mahogany with pressed-tin ceilings, vintage photos, enormous ashtrays, affable barkeeps, and only a faint aroma of smoldering tobacco (the establishment's ventilation system is first-rate). There's a humidor with 15 to 20 kinds of cigars, including Fuentes, Gurkhas, and Romeo y Julietas. The impressive liquor selection includes Chateau de Laubade armagnac, Laphroaig 30-year-old single malt, and 20-year-old Pappy Van Winkle bourbon. It's the perfect place to shake the dice, sip a sidecar, light a lady's cigarette, and seduce a client or two.