Tourists sometimes remember what we locals forget: the glory of a boiled, cracked Dungeness crab scarfed down at the scarred and sunken marble counter of the Swan Oyster Depot. Eat it adorned with nothing more than a dish of sticky yellow mayo (you can also just order it for tradition's sake, then leave it untouched) and slices of late-bake sourdough caked with cold butter. The taste of sweet flesh roots you in the city every bit as firmly as Swan's bolted-down stools.