S&T Hong Kong Seafood straddles the border between everyday and special occasion. On weekdays, the tables fill with retired couples taking the entire morning to snack on a few plates of silky cheung fan (steamed rice noodles) filled with shrimp; pyramids of Chinese broccoli; and paper-shelled salt and pepper tofu. At Chinese New Year, the banquet room is booked weeks in advance for 10-course dinners. And on weekday nights, the restaurant draws a sparser but no less festive crowd of three-generation families and Outer Sunset residents. They order fish-head hot pot and lacquered quail, or basics like soy-sauce chicken, black-bean clams, and Chinese greens with mixed mushrooms. Places like S&T remind us that Cantonese is the other California cuisine, the one we take for granted, the one we're content to eat over and over again.