What with all San Francisco's certified Neapolitan pizzas, its deep-dish organic pizzas, and the Brooklyn thin-crusts that East Coasters trumpet so huffily, no one shows love to the Sicilian slice anymore. It's the khaki pants of the pizza world, shunted off to the side of the display case, never argued over on Chowhound or Yelp. But the 32-year-old Golden Boy still shows the thick-crust square at its best. Baked on sheet pans the size of car hoods, Peter Sodini's focaccialike pizza slices have an inch-thick, soft, bubbly base brushed with oil so they crisp around the edges. Whether you're ordering a classic pepperoni and cheese or wilding out with one of the multiple-ingredient spectacles, the square slice shows, time after time, how much it deserves our loyal patronage.