As soon as you step away from the Sturm und Drang of Folsom Street into Saison's sapling-lined walkway, you enter a different world — a different era, even. The setting is Mayor James D. Phelan's 19th-century carriage house, which has been beautifully restored. After you enjoy a glass of champagne on the tree-shaded flagstone patio, the maitre d' leads you through the adjacent kitchen to your seat in a French farmhouse, or, rather, the dining room. Under the beamed, slanted ceiling are a communal table for eight, five smaller planked-wood tables, and rustic landscapes by local artists. Chef Joshua Skenes' meticulously crafted prix-fixe menu of contemporary haute cuisine is especially memorable in such timeless surroundings.