David "Hooker" Williams' chocolate-covered caramels, the size and shape of two butter pats pressed together, just might be the most searingly adult confections to emerge from San Francisco. A bitter chocolate coating keeps the dense plug of buttery caramel from candy sweetness, while a scattering of coarse flakes of Welsh sea salt — smoked over smoldering oak — moderate the excesses of both via a thrilling saline shimmer. Williams says he originally attempted to imitate Trader Joe's salted caramels, but he has far, far surpassed theirs in quality. His store at 442 Hyde (at O'Farrell) should open any day; check his Twitter feed (@hookerstreats) for details.