Handicapping the city's ever-expanding makers of Neapolitan thin-crust has become a local sport. Meanwhile, at Orson, Elizabeth Falkner's kitchen is quietly serving up the tastiest, most technically polished expressions of Cal-cuisine pizza in San Francisco. Sous-chef Josh Capone — one of the city's truly gifted breadmakers — mixes up daily batches of a dough Falkner developed. It yields pies of moderate thinness, smudged with black from a gas-fired pizza deck. The crisp-chewy slices, when lifted, cantilever like the eastern span of the Bay Bridge. There are five or so daily topping configurations. Our favorites from past months? The puttanesca with Castelvetrano olive wedges, the truffled-béchamel pizza bianca with fried sage, and a cheeseless number with kale, potato slices, and silken white-bean purée. Score one for Team Falkner.