Michael Mina conceived RN74, set in the year-old Millennium Tower condominium complex and named after a motorway wending through France's Burgundy region, as a casual wine bar. But it turns out that the luxury restaurateur has a hard time staying casual. Wine director Rajat Parr's studious, recherché wine program includes five-figure bottles as well as fantastic glasses under $10. The unique "Last Call" board, designed to look like it was stolen from a train station, lists outrageous special values. Chef Jason Berthold, who previously worked at the French Laundry, valiantly competes for oenophiles' attention with his elegant bar bites and full-course dinner menu.