All the banh mi from this bright-green storefront in the Inner Richmond excel in the basic competencies: A warm, airy French roll so crisp that crumbs fly off its surface when you press down. A faint coating of sweetened mayonnaise. Enough cilantro to perfume each bite, and enough jalapeños to keep you pausing after every few mouthfuls. The pork, however, stands out. The sweet, fish-sauce marinade of the pork thrums with flavor, and the meat stays on the grill just until a little charred-sugar smokiness clings to its surface.