Bellies are for beginners. Tripe has become trivial. Hearts are surging fast, but the truly trend-spotting offalian has moved on to eating necks. Chabaa Thai Cuisine, Lers Ros Thai, and Zaab Thai all grill boneless pork neck and serve it with a fermented-fish dipping sauce or tossed in a salad. Izakayas such as Ippuku grill skewers of tiny, juicy chicken neck (nakaochi), as well as pork neck/jowl (tontoro), whose fat browns and forms a crisp, smoky shell. Meanwhile, Western chefs have taken on the challenge of working with lamb: Plum and SPQR have braised lamb neck, picking off the meat; Incanto and Canteen have served it roasted; and Atelier Crenn has degristled the cut and turned it into a roulade, braising the meat like boned-out shortribs. We've heard no talk yet of opening a San Francisco branch of Kentucky Fried Buches, Tijuana's infamous chicken-neck restaurant, but perhaps it's only a matter of time.