The most satisfying sweets are the simplest, and the cobbler (aka the Great American Dessert) is simplicity itself. Put fruit in baking dish; pour biscuit dough over fruit; bake until hot and bubbly; devour, preferably with vanilla ice cream. But despite the dish's culinary modesty, it's hard to find a good cobbler outside the country kitchen. Happily, Park Chow, home of organic, rib-sticking comfort food like pork chops and spaghetti and meatballs, knows how to cook up a cobbler. Depending on the season, the fruit du jour might be peach, strawberry, rhubarb, pear, huckleberry, or a combination thereof; one recent example featured cranberries, walnuts, and tart apples draped with a crunchy, buttery crumble. Served piping hot in its own ramekin with a scoop of vanilla bean gelato and a dollop of freshly whipped cream, the outcome was ambrosial.