The first time we rolled into Bernal's newest bar, the Royal Cuckoo, we were not expecting to undergo a profound transformation. But that's exactly what happened. We were greeted by a harmonica-toting bouncer who then passed us on to a blind and drunk organ player. He chatted us up for about two hours while the mounted deer head and stuffed birds on the red walls stared deep into our souls. After PBR number five, the walls began melting and the gothic chandeliers went wiggly, so we made for the church pews, confessed all, and ordered more beer. We'll never be the same.