Yes, there are a few windows at Gitane, located down a dim and narrow alley in the Financial District, but they're few and easily covered. The glow of the back bar has a Midas touch, turning the bottles of liquor into liquid gold (some of them, frankly, are) and warming up even the ashiest pallor. Loosened up with a cocktail, warmbloods are easily lured up the stairs to the lairlike dining room, which is dominated in uneven bricks and damask, sultry even at cocktail hour. And while there may not be True Blood on the printed menu, Bridget Batson's Spanish- and Moroccan-tinged food — her imagination spiked by olives, chorizo, and saffron — is as rich and sensual as the surroundings. Sookie! Soooo-kah!