Best Roast Chicken - 2011
Limón Peruvian Rotisserie
Whatever secret marinade Martin Castillo's cooks smear onto the chickens at Limón before threading them onto the rotating spit, the chickens come to the table with crackly, ruddy skins marked with waves of flame-blackened spice. Lick your fingers and you'll note salt and garlic, perhaps a little lemon; we suspect, but can't prove, the presence of rocoto chiles. The cooks have memorized the right moment to take each spit off the flames, and since the restaurant does such a brisk business, the chicken has no time to sit around and grow flabby-skinned and firm. There's no benefit to eating it prettily, either. It's so tender you can easily pluck the pale-pink flesh off with your fingers, your fingertips glistening with juices after a bite or two. The breast is as flavorful as the fattier thigh meat, and wings and drumsticks both end up whittled down to bare bone.