You can find half a dozen superlative margheritas in town, regardless of the date. But since Alice Waters first installed a pizza oven in Chez Panisse Cafe in 1980, the Bay Area's contribution to the realm of pizza has been our eagerness to consider each blistery-lipped round an homage to the moment. One of the best of the seasonal pizza poets is Sharon Ardiana of Gialina and Ragazza, and one of her best pies this year captured the drizzly, gray appeal of the fall and early winter, Caramelized onions swirled around fruity chanterelles, punctuated by the salt-bite of cheese; the oven charred the edges of endive leaves and melted their centers, muting the bitterness and bringing out their darker, meatier notes. If we're lucky, perhaps the pie will return — somewhat altered, of course — to celebrate the chanterelles that emerge in the spring.