We understand that meat substitutes, crusty French rolls, and absence of Cheez Whiz won't jibe with cheesesteak purists, and that Swiss cheese (instead of American cheese or provolone) is considered improper among Philly connoisseurs. For our pick, we followed our taste buds, rather than notions about what makes a proper cheesesteak. Hey, we like seitan and aren't afraid to admit it. Jay's Cheesesteak's version ($7.95) earns extra points because the seitan is cut into ultrathin slices to more closely resemble strips of beef. It is then grilled with mushrooms and onions, topped with Swiss cheese and choice of condiments, on toasted French bread. Request barbecue sauce to add a gravylike, tangy kick that will satisfy meat lovers and ovo-lacto-vegetarians alike. Skip the cheese and mayo for a vegan version.