Blue Plate has long been a diner full of surprises. Cory Obenour almost always keeps meatloaf and braised shortribs on the menu, but also crispy pork belly with mussels escabeche and gnocchi with braised lamb shoulder and charred turnips. And if you expect to find big American wines to go with the familiar American flavors, you may find yourself ecstatically stumped: German and Lebanese reds. Loire Valley whites. Gavis and Moschofileros and a cult Washington Mourvedre. Almost all of his Chardonnays come from Burgundy, not Napa, and his more local choices include an old-vine Zinfandel from the Anderson Valley and a North Coast Cabernet franc. Glasses rarely top $10, and the bottle prices make them easy splurges. It's the kind of list you gleefully explore at a wine bar, and rarely get to eat with Obenour's fried chicken.