Since January, San Francisco has jumped from a one-bowling-alley town to one boasting three. One of the newcomers is truly a knockout. The industrial exterior of Mission Bowling Club, an 8,000-square-foot warehouse in the heart of the Mission District, disguises a retro décor that pays stylish homage to the sport. Six beautiful golden lanes upend the stereotype of sticky floors and bad upholstery choices, and Chef Anthony Myint, the mastermind behind popular local restaurants Commonwealth and Mission Chinese Food, has crafted a menu of accessible comfort food with fine dining technique and flair — to wit, the seven-bean salad doesn't come from a can, and the sausage on a stick is braised and served with a habañero crema. Between Myint's offerings and well-balanced adult libations, waiting for a lane is an actual pleasure.