The worst-spelled restaurant in San Francisco has been turning out the city's best rotisserie chicken for more than eight years. Owner Nabeel Yousef is a native of Jordan, and you can sense it in the subtle hint of sumac zest along with lemon, olive oil, and garlic on the flavorful chicken skin, as well as the za'atar on the grilled pita bread that accompanies it. The open-flame chicken, with a za'atar, garlic, and olive oil marinade, is more overtly Middle Eastern-tasting, but we're always seduced by the juicy tenderness of the rotisserie version. If you order takeout, you get the whole bird, so you can gnaw at the delicious bits along the backbone that restaurants usually toss into soup stock. Give up from the outset on keeping your hands clean. Tear off a corner of pita bread, dip it into a side of hummus or creamy baba ghanoush, or the garlic spread that comes with the bird, and drop a hunk of moist chicken meat on top. Savor and repeat. Perhaps it's just sooo goood that it cannot be abbreviated. Or spelled properly.