You can spot career waiters, like the ones Philippe Gardelle has filled his restaurant with at Chapeau!, the moment they walk up to your table. They've graduated beyond that post-college miasma that sends so many of us into the restaurant industry, and have nothing to prove to you about their amazing extracurricular graphic-artist-fashion-design activities. His waiters look you in the eye when they talk to you, and hear the requests behind your responses — you want to be left alone? you want to be joked with? They get it. The gracefulness in the way they slip around your chair and make plates appear and disappear rivals a stage magician's. With that level of professionalism, combined with Gardelle's reliably spot-on French food, it's no surprise that the French bistro has so many regulars, or that reservations are a must.