BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO® 2009

Tadich Grill

Best Crab Louis

published: May 20, 2009

Little encountered beyond the Pacific Coast, the "king of salads" is the best and simplest showcase for our favorite native crustacean, Dungeness crab. In its most classic state, crab Louis is composed of shredded romaine lettuce, big chunks of crabmeat, and a tureen of Louis dressing on the side, nothing more. Some might ring the platter with asparagus spears or stuffed olives or hard-boiled eggs or pickled beets, but at the Tadich, such ornamentation is disregarded. A bed of crunchy greens and the occasional sliced tomato is the only gustatory distraction from the big shards of sweet and luscious crabmeat at this 160-year-old fish house. The house dressing makes a splendid accent: creamy, smooth, and pale pink, it's a tangier, more savory variation on Thousand Island dressing, with hints of Worcestershire sauce and horseradish jazzing up the buttery crabmeat.