Coffee Bar Has a Wood-Fired Oven. You Know What That Means.

The Soppressata SalamiThe Soppressata Salami

It’s probably a good thing that Coffee Bar on Bryant and Mariposa doesn’t have too many neighbors, because that conspicuous wood-fired oven they’ve just installed would be likely to draw a lawsuit in a neighborhood that wasn’t zoned for light industry.

[jump] In other words, they’re serving pizza! Six different pizzas, to be exact, ranging from the standard Margherita (tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, sweet basil, olive oil and sea salt) to the not-exactly-American Americano (BBQ sauce, mozzarella, asiago, chicken, caramelized garlic and frisée). There is also a Vespa (olive oil, caramelized onion, brie, bacon, olive oil and sea salt) whose name may be derived from Italian or just a reference to the vehicle by which one Coffee Bar patron in three arrives.

But it’s the Soppressata Salami that drew me in. With provolone, salami, oregano, Calabrian chilies and fire-roasted red peppers, it’s got quite a bit of heat. Larding up a pie with so many oily toppings can result in a gloppy mess, but this crust had dimension and structure — and best of all, everything is half-off on weekdays from 5-9 p.m. until the end of the month, so this dinner-for-two was only $7.

Surrounded by split logs, the imported Genoese oven could not fit more perfectly in Coffee Bar’s peculiar trapezoidal patio. It’s like it was always there. No doubt, there’s a considerable carbon footprint with burning wood, but the advantages are many. Maybe give up flying instead?


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