Tuesday, September 7, 2010
You know the Cuban, right? An amalgam of porks and pickles, held in place by a matrix of melted Swiss and a sticky mayonnaise that can range from, well, sticky mayonnaise to a secret-sauce variant, griddled crisp. Not at Oralia's. Here the untoasted Cuban ― an occasional special ― achieves a kind of deconstruction, though the latex-gloved sandwich makers at this Dogpatch deli are hardly guys you'd peg as postmodernists.
Here, the Cuban is less an amalgamation and more a juxtaposition ― of thick-sliced house-baked pork loin and mildly smoky deli ham, chunky pickles, and cheese you can pick (you want Swiss), and a roll you can pick (you want the potato-rosemary). The pork has a healthy vein of fat running through it, and it's chewier than you'd think. This is among the burliest, most straightforward of Cubans, a Cuban built for construction workers, if only there were any around here. By default, HTML coders will have to do.
Oralia's Café: 2347 Third St. (at 20th St.), 621-2346.